9sec VF GTS Package

How did we run a 9sec pass on the stock bottom end 1900 LSA blower?
Guess what now you too can have the same engine/cooling combo as well as the ECU calibration to do it!

For several years we have kept our combo a secret. What we did and how we did it to make enough HP/TQ to power a street driven, full interior, stock bottom end, stock converter, stock gearbox/diff, near full weight VF GTS into the 9’s. Since we are no longer trying to break records or be a record holder we are now happy to release the package to suit your needs, and hey when you set a new record or an even faster time we can show everyone it’s fitted with all of our goodies to do it.

Let’s break it down for you, what you will need to purchase. (You may already have some of these parts so the package pricing will be altered to suit what you need and don’t need). Some pricing may vary based on the AUD/USD at the time of purchasing on various parts that will need to be imported.

We want to be extremely clear, this combo is very powerful. It will run a 9sec pass. This isn’t the bull crap facebook dyno numbers contest you normally see online. Your car will ACTUALLY be very quick at all RPM ranges, with neck snapping torque. It makes a VERY large amount of REAL HP/TQ.
If you can’t drive DO NOT buy this package

MPH = HP you’ve heard this before? however lets prove it
Our GTS weighed in at 1988kg (4382lbs) with fuel and driver “total weight”
At Sydney Dragway our best MPH was 146.61mph this equals 1077.7HP at the engine
At Heathcote in lower DA we ran 148.32mph this equals 1115.8HP at the engine

Right now you are thinking that’s not possible you cant make over 1100 engine HP with the 1900 blower on a stock bottom end LSA.
So lets prove it then!
Here in this video we raced our bone stock GTSR with just drag radials, on the standard tune as it came from HSV

As per the video of the stock GTSR we show you exactly what the car weighed, what MPH it ran and what engine HP that equaled.
2028.5kg (4472lbs)
118.41mph this equals 579.4hp at the engine (EXACTLY what the factory claims the LSA engine makes 580HP)
MPH Calculator here: http://www.torinocobra.com/horsepower.htm

Now you can see…yes we did in fact make that much HP, as you can also see in the video of the 9sec GTS the only weight removal was by using different wheels/brakes and removing the front sway bar….now how did we do it?

First everything is about air flow and cooling. These are the main 2 things we are first interested in to make the needed power to run these times. If you deviate from the below plan you will have differing results.

FII CNC Ported LSA Heads
FII Custom Ground Camshaft
FII ECU Calibration to suit pump 98
FII ECU Calibration to suit race fuel above 105 octane (petrol based not E85) $3595

Dual Valve Springs with titanium retainers $600 USD (we import them for you)
Trunnions with oil channel and upgraded bolts $220 USD (we import them for you)

It is critical at this point to understand cylinder head flow must be paired correctly with the right camshaft. As cylinder fill time is improved the camshaft MUST also be changed to suit, when the heads are of a poor design the cylinder fill time is longer. – We are yet to see any stock cast LSA head keep up with our heads, our heads obviously have proven themselves on the track where it really counts but the R&D in flow bench data also never lies. Have a more detailed read on our heads vs some other popular options as well as compared to stock and aftermarket here: https://fiinterchillers.com/lsa-ls3-cylinder-head-shoot-out/

Another really good tech article to better help you understand how to read head flow data here: https://fiinterchillers.com/cnc-ported-heads-are-they-worth-hp/

When it comes to the camshaft this isn’t based on “pub talk” at 0.050″ lift…who the hell cares what the duration at 50 thou is? The cam is based on intake and exhaust valve events. To really make you understand this you have probably heard people say “put it on a 110-112 LSA and it will be nice and lumpy” that’s total crap we have a cam that is on a 112 LSA and it sounds stock. Camshafts are based on when the intake and exhaust valves open and close. The at 50thou means nothing we don’t measure our johnson half way.

Next up we are still chasing air flow
Jokerz Performance CNC ported blower including griptec pulley $2730 USD (we organise freight to and from for you)
Nick Williams 102mm throttle body boosted version $750 USD (we import for you)
Custom 5″ intake $350 USD (we import for you)
Harrop intake shield modified to suit 5″ intake (make it yourself we provide guide photos)
5″ MAF tube $120 USD (we import for you)
Racing air filter $85 USD (we import for you)
ATI Harmonic Balancer lower pulley $850 USD (we import for you)
Idle relocation bracket $100 USD (we import for you)

We can’t stress enough how important this is, like cylinder heads there are some people who know what they are doing and some who kind of know what they are doing. If what we did was simple everyone would have a 9sec VF GTS. The blower porting just like the heads and cam is critical and must be performed by Jokerz Performance. There are tricks and methods of porting which are simply to out of range for what we have currently seen on the Australian base of porting.

Exhaust system:
2″ Hurricane Headers, 3″ exhaust system, catless
We tested with 1″7/8, 2″ pacemaker and 2″ hurricane (Hurricane was the best performing)

Now we MUST keep it cold
(On our GTS at the time we only had our stage 1 chiller and 6.5L reservoir. We can now go even further and run our stage 2 kit and 12L reservoir which will net even better results):
Stage 1 Race Chiller comp solenoid $2295
12L reservoir $525
Foam insulation for reservoir $80
LS3 Blower Spacers/thermal blanket $500
Reprogrammed EMP intercooler pump $795
Strengthened intercooler brick $230
20mm LSA lid spacer with built in water injection nozzles (spraying only water) $1185
AEM Water/Meth injection pump/tank/controller $750

Here it was important to tackle cooling, which allows a much larger amount of HP to be gained. The reservoir and EMP intercooler pump are of great benefit as the faster the fluid rushes through the intercooler the colder the intercooler brick is kept and then the lower the intake air temperature is. Obviously the chiller is a must you have to keep temperatures as cold as possible and obviously nothing comes close to cooling like our interchiller. Further improvement can be had here over what we did as we were still using factory hoses not -16AN braided hose which results in even more flow rate and colder temps, hose kit is $675 the stage 2 upgrade is $1200 and will gain even more power than what we previously made.

With the 20mm LSA lid spacer this is used only to inject water for the purpose of combustion cooling. We are creating a lot of combustion temperature from all of the cylinder pressure (cylinder pressure = HP) being created. The water has anti detonation properties to it as well as a HP gain. This not only makes it safer but more power as well. It is also important to note with water or water/meth injection for the purpose of both even distribution between cylinders, maximal HP gain as well as maximal combustion cooling, nozzle placement is critical this is why it is in the lid spacer so a very fine mist is sprayed evenly into each cylinder.

If for instance a single nozzle is used pre throttle body when this enters the rotor pack this will compress the fine mist into larger droplet sizes, then when it passes through the intercooler this again will form even larger droplet sizes. Whist this still has “an effect” it is not ideal and doesn’t achieve the goal, safely or even cylinder distribution and certainly doesn’t cool combustion temperature as well.

If you did want to run methanol you would double the nozzle size so you still have the combustion cooling benefits of the water and then the added octane and intake charge temp cooling of the methanol.
(You have to remember with methanol injection it is still a fuel and it still burns in combustion, it still creates heat and water is still needed for cooling combustion temps).As example you would run 1000cc of water and 1000cc of methanol.(We never used methanol it was not needed and we didn’t want to rely on it as part of our fuel source in case of any kind of system failure or clogged nozzle etc).

Fuel System:
ID1050X injectors $1600
Squash Performance fuel system (however other fuel pumps can be used)
-8an Feed line

Fuel is obviously important without it and oxygen we cannot make the HP. The stock fuel system even with a booster pump cannot supply enough fuel so a return style fuel system must be used. The VVE (virtual volumetric efficiency) table in the calibration we supply is suited to the ID1050X injectors.

In addition to this when it comes to injectors you simply pay for what you get. Injector dynamics are made by Bosch Motorsport for injector dynamics. They have a proper spray pattern (not a cut tip pencil beam of fuel like many other brands). The set of 8 injectors are a matched set of 8, they are all within 0.1% of each other. Injector data from Injector Dynamics makes them work flawlessly. It has even been said before with other brands of injectors by HP Tuners that many times the VVE table just doesn’t resemble a true air flow model as the injectors and their data are simply not correct. (Tune calibration will not work without ID1050x injectors)

Traction:
With all of that HP you now need to get it to the ground. Believe it or not the GTS never actually hooked properly it always had wheel spin as we retained the MRC suspension (With a proper set of double adjustable coil overs an even faster ET will be achieved)

Weld 15×10 rims with competition bead locks $2300 USD (we import them for you)
Mickey Thompson pro drag radials 275/60/15 (you can buy locally)

17×5 Weld front runners $1500 USD (we import them for you)
Mickey Thompson ET fronts (you can buy locally)

15″ Conversion kit to be able to run the 15×10 rims
includes brake rotors/4 piston willwood calipers (keeps your factory hand brake)
Lower Control Arms
Trailing Arms
Heavy duty anti roll bar $2000 USD (we import them for you)

Willwood front brake calipers and rotors $1500 USD (we import them for you)

What else is needed:
Iridium Racing Spark Plugs $180
Racing Spark Plug wires $200 USD (we import for you)
3 bolt cam gear $90 USD (we import for you)
Genuine LS7 Lifters $350 USD (we import for you) (This is important there is a lot of knock off LS7 lifters, and there is also genuine LS7 lifters that have failed GM quality control and are then sold in the aftermarket, we ONLY buy from a trusted source in the USA)
Solid isolator $70 USD (we import for you)
ARP head studs $450 USD (we import for you)
160f thermostat $35 USD (we import for you)
LS9 Head gaskets $150 USD (we import for you)

Shim up your factory oil pump and alter the oil system as per our LSA oil system guide here: https://fiinterchillers.com/lsa-oil-system-guide/

Remove front sway bar (drops about 7kg off the front of the car not entirely needed but some weight loss can help).

3/8″ Trend performance chrome moly pushrods will need to be purchased as the very last item after pushrod length has been checked on the engine for both intake and exhaust. (Do not EVER buy pushrods until checking required length).

A decent catch can will need to be installed and both passenger and drivers side rocker covers will need proper ventilation, we can advise how to achieve this.

What does it drive like?
It drives great, it doesn’t push on the stock converter at all. The camshaft has a nice tough idle sound, over taking people can take several goes due to wheel spin if you are too aggressive on the throttle. It can lay 2 thick rubber lines easily at 100km/h. If you want you can pack the family up and go away for a weekend, if you drive nicely your wife wont even complain.

If you drive it normally it will not be a handful even your wife can drive it. Fuel consumption is fairly normal, highway driving can be as low as 12-14L per 100km quite easily. If you don’t know how to drive this package isn’t for you, this is genuinely a 9sec street car. At all RPM points it is highly responsive when you want it to be eg: going 50% or more throttle input.

Leaving it in touring mode with traction control on is the safest way to drive it on the road as the ECU can correct wheel spin for you. Performance or track mode will be the fastest modes on the street allowing some traction loss. For racing turn traction control off. Your factory wheels will still fit without issue and have a stock appearance.

We can’t stress this enough, this combo is very powerful it will run a 9sec pass. This isn’t the bull crap facebook dyno numbers contest you normally see online. Your car will ACTUALLY be very quick at all RPM ranges, with neck snapping torque. It makes a VERY large amount of REAL HP/TQ.
If you can’t drive DO NOT buy this package
(Use head phones, or listen on a computer or TV, sound isn’t that great on a phone)

Please call or email to order